How Can I Shift
Smoothly on Hills?
The secret is to plan your shifts -
On the way up the hill, anticipate when you'll need an easier gear and shift to
it several seconds ahead of time. This way, you won't be mashing on the pedals and the chain will flow more smoothly and quietly.
In a situation where you're hammering up a hill and need to shift, here's the trick; just as you move the lever,
ease up pedal pressure, the shift will occur during one crank revolution. Then
you can pour on the coals again.
If you time it right, you won't lose significant speed. To maximize momentum,
push a bit harder for several strokes before lightening the shift stroke.
So remember any time you shift either derailleur, be conscious of your pedal
pressure and shifts made during a moderate application of power have the best
chance of being smooth and quick.
=============================
17 Good reasons to ride: http://ecoworldly.com/2008/06/16/17-reasons-why-bicycles-are-the-most-popular-vehicle-in-the-world-today/
BIKING IN
Before the freeways, the bicycle ruled the road in
Excerpt from the article in the Los Angeles Times on June 15, 2008:
Five years ago, thousands of bicycle riders and pedestrians converged at the
entrance to the Pasadena Freeway at
In one sense, the bikers were reclaiming what was once theirs. At the turn of
the century,
With traffic congestion worsening and gasoline prices continuing to rise, it's
no longer necessary to stage an event to show that the bicycle is a serious
transit option. Dozens of newspaper articles and blogs report that an
increasing number of commuters across the country are leaving their cars in the
garage and using other forms of transportation, especially bicycles, to get to
the store, school, bus or rail stop, even to work. Members of the L.A. County
Bicycle Coalition (which BCCClub is a member), for
instance, say they are getting dozens of inquiries requesting information on
the best bike routes to various locations across town.
Meanwhile, several dozen new bike groups have formed in
And bike riding is becoming more visible in the urban landscape. Midnight
rides, many organized spontaneously and sometimes willing to be disruptive to
lay claim to the streets, have become a monthly occurrence in some
neighborhoods throughout
Unfortunately, the increased interest in the bicycle as a commuting option
exceeds the city's capacity to handle it.
For a bicycle to become a viable mode of travel in
If bike riding can reassert its place in
Full Story:
http://tinyurl.com/6f3cfp
Should My Knees Be Closer to the Bike & Hill Cadence?
Q: I see quite a few riders with knees splayed outward.
This can be caused by anatomical characteristics or bad bike fit -- or a
combination.
Narrower knees are certainly better in terms of aerodynamics, but it's a common
misconception that pedaling with knees nearly brushing the top tube increases
power.
A: Knee position is determined by your anatomy. Ideally,
your knees will be directly over the pedals. But if you're bowlegged, they will
tend to be fairly far from the top tube. Trying to pull them in is likely to
strain and ultimately injure ligaments and tendons in your legs.
The best advice is to get a professional bike fit. Using one of the various
systems now available, a coach or a bike shop's fit technician can set your
saddle position and cleat location to accommodate your anatomy.
Then let your knees do what they want to do, naturally. That's the best way to
avoid injury and produce the most power your body is capable of generating.
Q: Typically I try to climb at a relatively high cadence,
but I noticed my training buddies are riding up a 9% grade at about 65 rpm (low
cadence). What should my cadence be?
A: Climbing cadence is highly individual, based on such
things as muscle fiber type (fast/slow) and training.
The theory is that high-cadence climbing in a relatively small gear stresses
the cardiovascular system and spares the leg muscles, while low-cadence
climbing in a bigger gear works the muscles hard but requires a bit less heavy
breathing.
If you climb with a high cadence and give the leg muscles a break early in a
ride, so the theory goes, you'll still have snap in your legs later when you
need it.
If you naturally prefer a high climbing cadence and feel more comfortable,
don't change just because of what you see other riders doing. But it's smart to
experiment with different gears and cadences to learn what is really most
effective for you.
Quick
Tip: Pain
in the Neck? During a long ride, your neck
can hurt like heck if you keep your head in one position for too long. Turning
to look at scenery on one side of the road and the other helps keep neck
muscles from
becoming stiff and fatigued. Here's another simple trick: Alternate slight tilts to the
left and right every few seconds instead of holding your head perpendicular.
Just a couple of degrees are all it takes to relieve tension. Do it, too, when
riding low in the drops or on aero bars so your neck isn't always cocked
straight back.
--Divide and Conquer. Here's an effective long-distance
strategy that's especially good when you're attempting a distance you
haven't ridden before. Let's say its a century.
Standing at the start and thinking about 100 miles (161 km) can create a mental
load that makes the physical one even tougher. So instead, think about riding
25 miles (40 km) four times. You know what it takes to do 25 and that isn't
scary. Your confidence will be higher. Then during the ride, stop at each
quarter-distance goal (perhaps there will be aid stations) to walk a bit,
stretch, eat and fill your bottles. Ride 25 more miles and repeat, all the way
to the end.
This "divide and conquer" strategy was used by none other than Seana Hogan when she began riding long
distances. It worked pretty well by making 100 miles doable. She went on to win the Race Across
America 6 times.
--Did you know cycling is not
only 30 times safer than riding in an automobile and its often touted as being six times safer than general living. Right,
the risk of dying from illnesses caused by lack of exercise outweighs the risk
of riding a bike by a factor of six.
--Do You Know What the Plastic Recycling Symbols Mean?
Dr. Mercola's full story at: http://tinyurl.com/6ey8lm
Warming up
Based on experience, the best warm-up
for cycling is:
· Start out easily for the first
10 – 15 minutes and gradually increase your pace.
· Avoid group rides that go from
the gun.
· If possible, pedal to the ride
location as a warm-up.
· Stretching; the general
consensus seems to be that stretching after activity is best. Of course,
everyone is different and you'll find people of all ages that swear by pre-ride
stretching.
The bottom line; avoid any hard effort and thus, risk
of injury before warming up -- however long that might take you!
Experienced cyclists often train without any electronic help. In
fact, they won't even glance at their cyclecomputer
to see how fast they're going. Instead, they listen to their body, constantly
monitoring their sense of perceived exertion. Learn to do this by paying close
attention to your lungs and legs.
· Lungs. When your
breathing is steady and regular, say one in-breath for every two pedal
rotations, it means you're safely below or at your LT even though the effort
feels hard. But if you start to pant, you've gone over the edge. Back off just
enough to find LT again.
· Legs. Listen to your
quads too. When the effort makes them merely uncomfortable, you're fine. But if
they start to burn and throb, back off.
Are you eating enough for those long bike rides?
It's amazing how many calories we
burn on long rides. A century can incinerate more than 4,000. Riders tend to
underestimate how much food this represents.
They don't make jersey pockets big
enough for so much grub. And, of course, you don't need to replace every
calorie burned. The trick is to start long rides with a full tank and then
begin steady in-flight refueling. Here's how:
·
Eat 2-3 hours before the start. If you scarf down a quick slice of
toast and cup of coffee, you'll soon be toast, too. Get up early, if necessary,
to have a substantial meal.
· Mix protein and fat with carbs. Most nutritionists suggest a pre-ride meal
that includes all three food components, not just carbohydrate. I like a bowl
of cereal with skim milk, a banana, juice and a bagel with cream cheese. Maybe
a cheese omelet with home fries and a couple of biscuits works
better for you.
Carbohydrate is essential to
endurance performance, but fat and protein "stick to the ribs" better
and make the meal last longer. Find what agrees with you and doesn't let your
stomach feel hollow an hour into the ride.
Of course, an ample breakfast means
it's uncomfortable to start fast, but that's actually a good thing when you're
touring or riding for fun. It holds you to a reasonable early pace, the key to
lasting the distance. You can always ride harder in the second half.· Keep re-fueling.
Even after a fairly hefty pre-ride meal, you need to begin eating and drinking
no later than an hour into the ride. At a burn rate of approximately 40
calories per mile, it's amazing how quickly cereal or an omelet gets converted
to energy.
The rule of thumb for long rides is
to consume 300-350 calories per hour. That's not as much as you burn, but it's
about all you can digest. It's the equivalent of a typical energy bar and
bottle or two of sports drink.
These calories, plus the muscle fuel
already stored in your body, should give you the energy you need to stay ahead
of the bonk all the way to the finish.
Taste
Test. If marketing hype has you thinking about using new nutritional
products in the coming season -- energy bars, gels, drinks or other performance
aids -- start trying them now. Never ingest something new for an important ride
because your system may rebel. Use early-season training to find out what works
in terms of nutrition, clothing and equipment so these things will be dialed in
for your big events.
If
you ever lock your bicycle in a public place, you should watch Carlton Reid's video
to see how fast bike thieves can make off with your pride and joy. And how you
can make it a lot tougher for anyone that may attempt a theft. http://quickrelease.tv/?p=327
Tips - Stop! Stop!
Stop
There has been a lot
of discussion regarding cyclists and stop signs . While everyone seems to have an opinion regarding
compliance with and enforcement of the stop sign statute, the law itself is
clear.
RCW 46.61.755(1)
states in pertinent part as follows: “every person riding a bicycle upon a
roadway shall be granted all of the rights and shall be subject to all of the
duties applicable to the driver of a vehicle….”
RCW 46.61.190(2)
states in pertinent part as follows: “…every driver of a vehicle approaching a
stop sign shall stop at a clearly marked stop line, but if none, before
entering a marked crosswalk on the near side of the intersection or, if none,
then at the point nearest the intersecting roadway where the driver has a view
of approaching traffic on the intersecting roadway before entering the roadway,
and after having stopped shall yield the right of way to any vehicle in the
intersection or approaching on another roadway so closely as to constitute an
immediate hazard during the time in which such driver is moving across or
within the intersection or junction of roadways.”
RCW 46.04.565 states:
“"Stop" when required means complete cessation from movement.”
In simple terms,
whenever you see the red octagonal sign facing you, you need to come to a
complete stop and not venture out into the intersection until it is safe to do
so. Contrary to popular rumor, there is no statute that says you have to put
your foot down in order to make a lawful stop. Like any traffic statute,
however, enforcement is within the discretion of the police officer. Putting
your foot down is generally sufficient notice to all concerned (motorist,
officer, prosecutor, judge, etc) that you had “complete cessation from
movement.”
Enter into any
discussion with a cyclist regarding stop signs
and you will undoubtedly hear a lengthy reason why he/she does not stop at
certain signs...
Tips – Tires and Lights
Want bulletproof tires, tires that have Kevlar or some other
impenetrable layer reduce the likelihood of flats. While carrying a pump, extra
tube and tools is always a good thing, flat tires sucks. Having the right
belted tires may mean the only flats you get result from riding the tires
under-inflated. Many of these tires have thick treads, so they can last a year
or two depending on how far and how often you ride.
Every rider should have at least one blinking light handy.
Most are designed to clip onto clothes, or come with quick-release brackets
that make taking them on and off bikes a breeze. A red blinking light for the
back is essential and a white blinking light for the front is useful for
alerting oncoming traffic.
http://www.rouesartisanales.com/article-1503651.html
Cleat
Care
---Look-style. Once a week if you ride most
days, take an old toothbrush, some warm soapy water and scrub the cleat. Rinse
and wipe dry. Then look for cracks or other damage. If the wear indicators (the
little holes on the front and rear of each cleat) are gone from too much
walking, replace the cleats. If you're using off-brand cleats without wear indicators,
just compare a new cleat to the ones you're using. Then check the tightness of
the cleat bolts. A loose cleat could mean falling over ungracefully at the next
stop when you try to twist out.
---Speedplay.
These lollipop-looking pedals are very popular. They're unusual in that the
tension springs are in the cleat rather than the pedal. As such, they require
regular lubrication and must be kept clean of any clogging debris (mud,
gravel). Speedplay recommends lubricating the cleat
springs every couple of rides with a "dry" lube such as Pro Link,
White Lightning, Finish Line or the like. A drop on each spring disappears into
the cleat and does the job nicely. Again, check for tightness, but don't overdo
it. If any of the four little cleat-fastening screws are over tightened, the
springs will jam and make clipping in and out difficult. When you notice flat
spots on the spring, replace the cleats. The folks at Speedplay
recommend new ones every 3,000-5,000 miles. It's a great idea and not a sales
pitch.
Turning!
Training reps
---Vary your training speed. The
primary mistake most riders make is pedaling at the same effort level within
each ride and for ride after ride. They lock into a pace that's neither too
hard nor too easy. As a result, they never go fast enough to promote
improvement or slowly enough to allow recovery. Their training palette is a
monotone gray rather than red-hot bursts of effort followed by cool-blue
spinning.
---Do four sprints every hour. Studies show that fast
accelerations of just 10-30 seconds can raise your average cruising speed by
giving you more power.
You don't need to sprint all-out. Simply stand and accelerate until you
spin out the gear, then sit down and spin up to 10 rpm faster. Hold this speed
for several more seconds, then back down gradually.
Repeat 3 or 4 times per hour, separated by 15-20 minutes of riding at your
normal cruising pace. A good time to sprint this way is on short climbs
or the flat road following descents when your speed is already up. Sprint in a
big gear to keep your descending momentum for about 15 seconds.
Coach
Jim………….